Aunt Jemima’s Great-Grandson Was Furious That Her Legacy Was Being Erased

The well-known “Aunt Jemima” breakfast product has been renamed as Pearl Milling Company. This change honors the mill, established in 1888, that started making the iconic pancake mix in 1889. The brand had faced criticism for its racist origins involving a caricature of a Black “mammy” character. The decision to rebrand came in 2020, triggered by the death of George Floyd.

“Last June, PepsiCo and The Quaker Oats Company pledged to alter the name and image of Aunt Jemima, acknowledging that they did not align with our core principles. While the label has changed, the delightful products — the ‘pearl’ within the red packaging – remains unchanged,” stated Pearl Milling Company at the announcement.

The History of Aunt Jemima

The Aunt Jemima brand originated in 1889 with founders Chris Rutt and Charles Underwood. They employed a Black woman to represent the brand. Nancy Green, previously a slave, worked as a cook and attended events in an apron and headscarf, serving pancakes at venues like “The White City.” She was especially well-known from her representation at the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago, where she served pancakes and recounted idealistic tales about “the good old plantation days.”

Subsequently, Lillian Richard became “Aunt Jemima” for over two decades. Anna Robinson started portraying Aunt Jemima in 1933, followed by Anna Short Harrington. Harrington, born on a South Carolina plantation, began working in a similar capacity. She was later discovered making pancakes at the 1935 New York State Fair and hired by Quaker Oats. Harrington then traveled nationwide as Aunt Jemima, gaining national fame.

In the 50s and 60s, actress Aylene Lewis took the role. In 1989, the brand updated Aunt Jemima’s image to what was described as a “modern look” featuring a lace collar and pearl earrings. Ethel Ernestine Harper was the final living woman to portray the brand until 1958, later becoming a history teacher and radio host.

“This Aunt Jemima logo stemmed from Old South plantation nostalgia and romance centered on the ‘mammy’ figure, a loyal and submissive servant who nurtured the children of her white master and mistress while ignoring her own,” wrote Riché Richardson in the New York Times. “This myth shaped her visually as a nonsexual, plump Black woman with a headscarf.” [1]

“This is an injustice for me and my family”

Not everyone favored the rebranding. After the 2020 news, Anna Short Harrington’s great-grandson, Larnell Evans Sr., criticized the rebrand for erasing her legacy. “This is an injustice for me and my family,” Evans stated in an interview with Patch. “The racism they mention, using slavery images, originates from others — white people. This company profited from slavery visuals. Their solution is to erase my great-grandmother’s legacy. A Black woman. …It’s painful.” [2]

Quaker Oats reportedly used Harrington’s pancake recipe, according to Evans and his nephew, who sued Quaker Oats in 2014 for $3 billion in unpaid royalties. Evans lost the case; the judge ruled they weren’t executors of Harrington’s estate and didn’t have the standing to sue.

“She worked with Quaker Oats for two decades, traveling extensively across the U.S. and Canada as Aunt Jemima,” he mentioned. “This woman served post-slavery, it was her profession. …How must I feel as a Black man recounting my family’s history that’s being erased?”

Evans, a 66-year-old veteran from North Carolina, living on disability, believes his family and others like his deserve more from companies that profited from racist imagery before rebranding.

“We’re still proud of her”

Nevertheless, Vera Harris, a descendant of Lillian Richard, generally supports the rebrand. “I see the images white America displayed of us historically. They impersonated us, and Quaker Oats’ rebranding is understandable. Still, I oppose erasing her legacy, as if she wasn’t real,” Harris said. [3]

Marcus Hayes, a great-nephew of Nancy Green, also felt the 2020 decision wiped out history. “I comprehend the brand’s sensitivity, but I don’t want Nancy Green’s accomplishments lost,” he noted. [4]

Harris remarked how Richard worked during an era with few jobs for Black individuals, particularly women. “She accepted the position for an honest living, participating in fairs and events,” Harris said. “Returning home, they celebrated her, and we remain proud of her.”